Kimono-style narrow A-line evening dress with broad square-cut long sleeves and plunging V-neckline, made of light blue, orange and shades of green printed synthetic silk in 'blowsy' floral design. The cuffs, hem and neck edges of the dress are edged with a broad band of black and white printed synthetic silk in a cross and grid design. The same fabric is used for an attached tie around the high waistline, which is tied in a flat bow at the front of the dress.
This dress was designed by John Bates for Jean Varon for the Spring / Summer 1972 collection.
The dress fastens centre back with a long zip. The narrow A-line style of the garment is achieved by cutting the skirt in just 3 panels; one at the front and two at the back (to take the zip). The sleeves and bodice are cut all in one, with the seams at the underneath part of the arm.
There was a marked vogue for Japanese styling amongst British designers showing collections in Autumn 1971. In October 1971 Flair ran a feature on this phenomenon with the comment '...Oriental influence has spread to British designers ... square kimono sleeves crop up everywhere…on evening dresses...even on sweaters...'.
This dress was worn by a model called Annie, who worked for John Bates, in a photograph in the Daily Mirror in November 1971 to accompany a feature called 'How to Give Your Bust a Boost'. (The dress with its plunging V-neckline was particularly apt for this feature). The article discussed the merits of a larger bust ... 'Similar satisfaction with her ebullient curves is felt by Annie, a rounded 35-24-35 ½ ... 'A big bosom' says Annie, 'is definitely more appealing as far as men are concerned...I developed at 14 or 15, perhaps because of all the swimming I did at the time. Then again, I come from Jamaica, so maybe it was all that sun...'.
This dress is made of the same fabric as one other dress designed by John Bates for Jean Varon in the Fashion Museum collection (BATMC 2004.439).
This particular dress was bought by Richard Lester in a vintage clothes store in Covent Garden in London in 2004.
Given to the Museum of Costume by Richard Lester
Exhibited in John Bates: Fashion Designer at the Museum of Costume, 14 July - 28 August 2006